September 12, 2019 - Dubai, UAE
The solar journey from dawn to dusk is the starting point of Longchamp's Spring/Summer 2020 collection. For her third show at New York Fashion Week, Creative Director Sophie Delafontaine recalled the colorful artwork of Judy Chicago as she visualized looks that follow a woman as she traverses her day, faultlessly outfitted for every occasion. She is mixing and matching pieces that resonate with her active, on-the-go lifestyle, while keeping to a sophistication that is part and parcel of Parisiennes.
This blurring of time also applies to the way the collection combines inspiration from the 1970s and 1990s—seamlessly blended to form fresh, eye-catching styles. Nylon crop tops are paired with transparent skirts with floral appliqués, and roomy leather jackets envelop knitted two-piece sets. The hems of the shorts are high, and the skirts flow long, imbuing the looks with a flirty, feminine quality that meanders between sporty sensibilities and bohemian spirit.
The palette of colors—from jade to apricot to turquoise—appear as if they have been bleached by the sun's rays throughout the day. They are cast on pleated airy dresses in dégradé silk, and ones that feature smocking on the waist, giving them a sporty vibe that is then softened with frilly panels. To highlight the idea of the sun's movement even further, a print of a sundial radiates on a number of styles, as a nod to the psychedelic prints of the 70s. Black and white touches and stripes in varying shades are also put forward, charging the collection with vitality and a graphic edge. All are cinched with thin leather belts that feature the Roseau, bamboo adornments that characterize the bag of the same name.
Now serving as an essential style within the collection for more than 20 years, the Roseau carryall is reinterpreted with sleek top-handles and bucket bags in an array of sizes and designs, from color- blocked patterns to tan leather, providing an assortment that speaks to versatility. The Roseau is joined by the iconic Le Pliage®, which is scaled to a mini version as well as a nano version, as if it were a piece of jewelry. Permeating ease and éclat, the bags perfectly complement the flat footwear comprised of strappy gladiator sandals and knitted boxing shoes that rest right below the knee—all of which highlight the collection's interplay between the '70s and '90s.
These juxtapositions of differing forms and materials, of decades far removed from one another, create a dynamic lineup that emits a feel-good emotion. To wit, it encourages one's personality to shine through.